Biopreparations are fundamental resources in organic gardening, especially when crop associations and the integration of beneficial flora and fauna have not yet achieved a proper balance in the ecosystem. It is important to remember that although an organic garden seeks to mimic natural processes, it is still an artificial ecosystem created by humans. Therefore, biopreparations act as allies that help restore natural balance and protect crops from pests and diseases.

Biopreparations are substances and mixtures of plant, mineral, or animal origin found in nature. They have nutritional properties for plants or act as insect repellents and attractants, for the prevention and control of pests or diseases, or as growth aids.

Making and applying biopreparations is an essential part of garden planning. These preparations not only help strengthen plants and combat harmful agents, but also enrich the soil and promote biodiversity.

Advantages of using biopreparations

• They are harmless
• They are biodegradable
• They are easy to prepare, which gives us more independence.
• They do not leave toxic residues in food
• They develop less resistance
• They are cheaper
• They do not require energy from fossil fuels for their production.

Recipe Book

Biofertilizers

• Peanut shell decoction:

Peanut shells contain a large amount of phosphorus, so if we need to add phosphorus to our plants, this biofertilizer is great.

Simply take a few handfuls of peanut shells, crush them, and boil them in 1 liter of water for about 30 minutes over low heat. Let it cool, then dilute the resulting liquid in about 2.5-3 liters of water, and you're ready to start watering.

• Nettle slurry:

- 1 kg nettles (use nettles without the root, we are interested in the leaves)

- 10 liters of water

Once we've harvested the nettles, we put them in a container and mix them with water. It's best to use wooden utensils rather than metal, as metal could rust and kill the beneficial bacteria. Nettles fix nitrogen in the soil, making it readily available to plants. The nettle manure will strengthen the plants against pests and promote faster growth. It's also rich in calcium and iron. Ideally, the mixture should be stirred daily for about 5 minutes.

There are three stages in the preparation:

1. The first stage of maceration, or dissolution of the components, begins after mixing the water with the nettles and lasts approximately 4-7 days. There are hardly any bacteria present; they are still reproducing. It could already be used as a pest repellent and to combat fungi. Dilution: one part nettle manure to ten parts water.
2. The second fermentation stage begins on the seventh day after mixing and continues until only the stems remain. You'll notice this stage because the bubbles are no longer as abundant as at the beginning. This means the bacteria have consumed the nitrogen produced. It typically lasts about 15 days, perfect for use as fertilizer for watering or spraying. Dilution: one part liquid fertilizer to ten parts water.
3. Third stage of mature slurry. The bacteria have now transformed all the available material. Minimal concentration of organic matter. In this final stage, the slurry is used to regenerate the soil and provide nitrogen, making it more easily absorbed by plants. Dilution: one part slurry to 10 parts water.

If stored in a cool, dark place, it will last up to 3 months.

• Banana tea:

We used about 5 banana peels and cut them into small pieces. In a pot, we put a liter of water, added the bananas along with the cold water, and brought it to a boil over high heat for about 15 minutes. Finally, we removed it from the heat, strained it, and let it cool. To use it, we diluted the banana peel tea in two liters of water and watered the plants once every 10 days during the flowering season.

• Manure or compost tea:

We add one scoop of well-rotted manure for every 10 liters of water. When we stir it, we should see plenty of bubbles, indicating that the fermentation process has begun. Let it sit and stir it for 5-10 minutes each day. Thanks to fermentation, the nutrients will break down into their simplest forms, making them easier for plants to absorb. Then, let it macerate for 10-15 days. Dilution: 1 liter of manure tea to 10 liters of water. Use every 20 days.

Biostimulants / Rooting Agents

• Lentil rooting agent:

We used one cup of lentils and four cups of water.

When water is mixed with lentils, they germinate, releasing auxins (a plant hormone that acts as a regulator in plant growth, causing the elongation of plants) and making more roots appear.

We combine the lentils with the water and cover them, leaving them in a cool, dark place for about 3 or 4 days. After this time, most of the lentils should have sprouted. The next step is to blend these lentils and strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve.

The resulting liquid is diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio (100ml lentils to 1 liter of water). This preparation can be stored in the refrigerator for about 15 days.

• Aloe vera rooting agent:

The first thing we'll do is cut a leaf from our aloe vera plant. We need to extract as much gel as possible from the leaf by cutting it in half and using a spoon to scoop out the gel. We'll place it in a blender and add a small amount of water, roughly half the amount of gel. Once we've done this, we'll blend it. The result will be a liquid mixture, but not too thick.

Once we have this preparation ready, our aloe vera rooting agent will be ready to use.

To use it, we must dip our cuttings in the aloe vera rooting hormone and plant them, always making sure they stay moist. We can water with the rooting hormone once every five days.

Biofungicides

• Horsetail manure:

It is an effective fungicide, due to its high silicon content, which helps to strengthen the cellular tissues of plants and combat fungal attacks.

- 1 kg of freshly crushed plant (much better)

- 10 liters of rainwater

The entire plant must be covered, stirring it daily for about 5 minutes to oxygenate it and ensure everything mixes well with the water. Always use a wooden stick or some other rust-free material.

Keep covered, ensuring some ventilation, and store in a cool place. After two weeks, once filtered, it will be ready. Dilution: one part horsetail to ten parts water.

Spray both sides of the leaf every 10-15 days to prevent fungal growth, and once a week if fungal growth is already present. It can be stored for 3-5 months.

• Nasturtium infusion:

Nasturtiums are trap plants, meaning that pests will go to them before they go to our vegetable crops.

- Half a kilo of fresh leaves

We put two liters of water in a pot and bring it to a boil, add the leaves and leave it on the heat for about 2-3 minutes. We let it steep until it cools and then strain it.

If used as a preventative measure, you can use three parts nasturtium to ten parts water. If used to combat existing mold, it can be sprayed directly.

• Milk and baking soda:

- 1 liter of water

- 1 teaspoon of baking soda

- 100ml of skimmed milk

Preparing this solution is very simple. You just need to mix the ingredients.

Milk contains lactic acid, a substance that lowers the pH on the surface of leaves, creating a more acidic environment that is unfavorable for the growth of many types of fungi. In addition, lactic acid bacteria (such as those of the genus Lactobacillus ), which produce lactic acid, also compete with fungi for nutrients and space on the leaf surface. Meanwhile, baking soda acts as a healing agent if fungal damage is visible, although it is recommended to remove affected leaves and discard them.

To apply, spray the biopreparation onto the leaves, making sure to cover both sides (upper and lower). For preventative purposes: every 10-15 days. For curative purposes: every 7 days until signs of fungal growth disappear.

Bioinsecticides / Biorepellents

• Avocado macerate:

- 2 avocado pits/seeds

- 2 liters of water (preferably rainwater)

Tannins are the substances in avocado pits that we're interested in. This homemade insecticide is a maceration, and as with many other things, it's important to prepare macerations properly for them to be successful and truly effective. We must follow certain guidelines to take advantage of and extract all the properties of the ingredient.

To prepare it, ideally you should grate the avocado seed. If you don't have a grater, you can always chop it into the smallest pieces possible with a knife; as with all extracts, the smaller and more finely chopped, the better. While you're grating the avocado, heat two liters of water until it comes to a boil. Once it starts boiling, turn off the heat and add the grated avocado. Then cover it and leave it in a secluded spot overnight, a process known as maceration. The boiling water, in addition to helping extract all the properties of the seed, also helps eliminate any potential contaminants or pathogens from the avocado seed. After 12 hours, it's ready to use.

Before using it, we must strain it before using it in our sprayer and also dilute it to avoid harming our plants. We will dilute it with 10 liters of water (ideally rainwater; if using tap water, let it sit uncovered for two days to allow the chlorine to evaporate).

This maceration is very effective against aphids, butterfly larvae (such as those of the cabbage white butterfly), whiteflies, and spider mites. It should be used every 3 or 4 days to combat pests.

As for its preservation and shelf life, like all macerations and infusions , it doesn't last very long, so it should be used as soon as possible. If kept in the refrigerator, it can last up to 15 days.

• A-PI-CHI Insecticide

This biopreparation is very effective against pests such as aphids, whiteflies, and spider mites. The quantity can be scaled up as long as the ingredient ratios are maintained.

- 500 gr of hot chili peppers or chilies

- 500 gr of garlic

- 250g of whole, unground pepper to preserve its properties

- 500 ml of 96º alcohol

Put the chili peppers in a blender and make a paste. This paste is meant to "burn" the insects' exoskeletons, so the spicier it is, the more effective it will be.

Next, add the garlic and blend it in the same way. Garlic has a fungicidal effect. Then, crush the black pepper and add it to the previous paste.

Add the alcohol to the blender where you blended the paste, scrape up any excess, and add it to the paste. The alcohol helps retain all the properties and substances of the ingredients used, preventing their loss and increasing their effectiveness.

We let the entire mixture macerate for about 12 hours to extract all the properties. After that time, we add the paste to 10 liters of water. We leave it covered in a cool, shady place for two weeks. After this, the mixture needs to be filtered.

Dissolution: dilute the preparation on a 1/10 basis, that is, 100 ml of apichi per liter of water.

We apply it as a spray to our crops. As a preventative treatment, apply it once every 10-12 days. If we have an established infestation, increase the application time to once every 4-5 days. It's important not to overuse this biopreparation when spraying, as it is very potent. Likewise, it's recommended to wear protective gear when spraying, as the chili pepper can cause discomfort.

• Potassium soap

Potassium soap is an environmentally friendly bioinsecticide made from potassium salts of fatty acids. Its main action is to break down the waxy coating on the bodies of soft-bodied insects, such as aphids, mealybugs, and whiteflies, causing them to dehydrate and die.

To use it, dilute 10-20 ml of soap per liter of water. It is recommended to use lukewarm water to facilitate dissolution.

Once diluted, using a sprayer or backpack sprayer, apply the solution directly to the plants, paying special attention to the undersides of the leaves, where pests often hide. Make sure to apply the solution during periods of low sunlight, such as early morning or late afternoon, to avoid burning the leaves.

If it's a preventative measure, it can be applied every two weeks. If, on the other hand, the infestation is already present, it's best to repeat the treatment every 5-7 days while it persists.

Although potassium soap is compatible with many organic treatments, it should not be mixed with oils such as neem oil in the same solution, as this could reduce its effectiveness.